|Author||:||Patrick Weiler mailto:%email@example.com|
|Date||:||12-09-2001 on 02:48 p.m.|
You noted that no treatment detrimental to the wool should be used, and
mentioned lauryl sulfate. Orvus is based on sodium lauryl sulfate and is
what I use to clean small rugs/bagfaces with. Has it been shown to harm
the wool? It takes a long time to use up a gallon of the stuff. I
certainly do not want to buy a horse just to shampoo it in order to use up
the rest of my Orvus! (the donkey is too small )
One other item in your list of suggestions was to not use imported dyes, but even some of the antique weavers used some imported natural dyes in some instances. I believe insect dyes were traded extensively.
|Author||:||Bob Alimi mailto:%firstname.lastname@example.org|
|Date||:||12-09-2001 on 05:57 p.m.|
|Geez... I just bought a gallon of Orvus paste too! From all the
information that I read prior to choosing Orvus, it seems that sodium
lauryl sulfate is absolutely the safest cleaning agent to use for antique
textiles. In fact, sodium lauryl sulfate seems like something of a miracle
cleaner; a non-allergenic laundry soap, and a pure-as-pure-can-be shampoo
for all types of creatures. From what I can gather, it's the basis for
many commercial cleaners, and that, in general, people would be better off
using this stuff in pure form, without all the extra junk that gets added
to create a variety of specialty soaps, from dish detergents to shampoos.
Please don't burst my soap bubble! ...oh well, I can always use it to wash
the puppy and the car.
|Author||:||Steve Price mailto:%email@example.com|
|Date||:||12-09-2001 on 07:37 p.m.|
Orvus is perfectly safe on rugs. It doesn't react with dyes or with wool, and is not nearly as alkaline as most detergents. It takes lots of rinsing to get it all out, but it does no damage.
|Date||:||12-10-2001 on 12:52 p.m.|
laury sulfate has the advantage over soap that it cleans at lower
degrees of pH. But its de-fattering activity is too high, in my opinion,
especially for being applied to old pieces. Our style of testing has been
in the last 20 years: use the material for at least one week as a hair
shampoo. If Your skin or hair feels dry after constant application it will
not please Your wool. Keratin of wool and keratin+kollagen of skin are
quite close to each other in structure.
|Author||:||R. John Howe mailto:%firstname.lastname@example.org|
|Date||:||12-10-2001 on 09:15 p.m.|
|Dear folks -
My understanding is approximately what Steve's is above.
There was one very loud opponent of the use of Orvus at the last ACOR. She is Emily Sanford, the West Coast restorer, who was vigorous in her criticism of Orvus, claiming that it left a residue and that it tended to turn unacceptably acidic with time.
I think Ms. Sanford recommended a product called "Triton XL-80N Surfactant," made by Union Carbide. Among the features claims for this latter product is that it is 99% biodegradable.
Ms. Sanford and an English gentleman took this same anti-Orvus position in a Hali debate. Utimately, Smithsonian researchers wrote in agreeing that Orvus leaves a residue but said that it acts like "a transparent dye," and disagreed that it becomes unacceptably acidic.
R. John Howe