From: Subject: TurkoTek Discussion Forums - Anyone experimented with lighting for displaying rugs? Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 09:39:21 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; type="text/html"; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C7A29E.66F28210" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3028 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C7A29E.66F28210 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: TurkoTek Discussion Forums - Anyone experimented with = lighting for displaying rugs? Posted by Joseph Beck on 04-30-2007 12:21 AM:=20

Anyone experimented with lighting for displaying rugs?

I'm hoping someone else with an engineering background has already = spent some=20 effort on how much and what type of light optimizes how rugs appear. At = worst=20 case, maybe some of the information here will be of help to others. The=20 discussion might be a bit geeky, but I think the payoff is worth it. =

I'd=20 been a bit depressed with how drab a lot of my rugs looked indoors vs. = how they=20 looked in sunlight. I already had 4 100-watt incandescent bulbs in a = 12'x15'=20 room, so adding more light meant a fair amount of heat, which is = unpleasant with=20 summer drawing near. To get around heat limitations, I've been = experimenting=20 with compact fluorescent lights. My current setup is 3 55-watt CFLs and = 1=20 30-watt CFL in the same 12'x15' room. For comparison, before I had about = 6200=20 lumens of illumination; now I have 13600 lumens.

In a word, = wow!=20 Rugs display much better than before. The strongest effects are for reds = and=20 yellows, which appear much richer. Baluchis also look much, much happier = since=20 it is possible to actually see all of those subtle dark shades (e.g. a = black=20 field bordered in dark brown with navy blue highlights).

There = are two=20 possible reasons for the better display:
1. There is twice as much=20 light.
2. The color balance is much better. Incandescent lights have = light=20 that is very yellowish, around 2800K vs. 6000K for mid day sun. CFLs = come in a=20 variety of temperature options up to around 6500K (somewhat blueish = light).=20

If I had to guess, dark rugs display better because of the extra = light=20 and reds/yellows display better since the yellow incandescent light = washed those=20 colors out.

I feel weird having spent $100 on 4 light bulbs, but = they=20 make the rugs much more beautiful. I can't think of a $100 upgrade that = would=20 result in so much aesthetic improvement--and not just to the rugs, the = entire=20 room looks happier.

1. Additional lighting = is worth=20 experimenting with.
2. Compact fluorescents deserve a look.
3. If = you get=20 a compact fluorescent, pay attention to color temerature and color = rendering.=20 Around 5000K seems to look nice, and you probably want a high color = rendering=20 index (at least 84).

1. Has anyone figured out = an=20 optimal (or good) light level for different types of colors/weaving = areas?=20
2. Has anyone done any playing around with different color=20 temperatures?
3. Any other lighting suggestions?
4. Is it worth = mixing=20 CFLs from different manufacturers/product lines? CFLs tend to have holes = in=20 their spectrum, would having a variety of bulbs help smooth things out?=20

Tech details:
3 CFLs, 55 watts, 3600 lumens, color = rendering 91,=20 5000k, rated 10000 hours
1 CFl, 30 watts, 2800 lumens, color = rendering ??=20 (claims to be a photography bulb), 6400K, rated 10000 = hours

Total, 13600=20 lumens at 5200K

Holding a lux meter flat against the rugs hanging = gives=20 lux readings in the 175 to 275 range, depending on where in the room the = reading=20 is taken. Holding a lux meter at head level directly under the lights = gives 1800=20 lux. Looking right at the light source hurts ;-)

Posted by Unregistered on 04-30-2007 03:48 AM:=20

Hi Joseph,

I'll try soon lighting carpets by led (Light = emitting=20 diodes), they present several advantages (on the paper).
- very low=20 consumption
- temperature around 3000-3300 K
- very durable (more = than=20 10.000 hours)
- smollest dimensions

Have you considered this=20 technology?


Posted by Steve Price on 04-30-2007 05:56 AM:=20

Hi Maurizio

Welcome to Turkotek. If you would, please = overwrite the=20 word "unregistered" with your full name in the UserName field when you = post.=20 That way, your name will appear in the message header.

I'll be = very=20 interested to learn how your lighting experiment turns out.

Hi=20 Joseph

We have track lighting at home, and use PAR 30 halogen = lamps in=20 most places for lighting rugs. They put out much more light than = incandescent=20 lamps at the same wattage and, more important, their spectral balance is = much=20 closer to sunlight than the incandescent sources are.=20


Steve Price

Posted by Joseph Beck on 04-30-2007 11:24 PM:=20

Originally posted by Unregistered
Hi Joseph,

I'll = try=20 soon lighting carpets by led (Light emitting diodes), they present = several=20 advantages (on the paper).
- very low consumption
- temperature = around=20 3000-3300 K
- very durable (more than 10.000 hours)
- smollest=20 dimensions

Have you considered this technology?

Maurizio =


I think we each read the same = paper for=20 advantages of LEDs :-). They were the first technology I tried. I liked = the idea=20 of low power consumption and long life--you can just leave them turned = on. The=20 problem I had was that they weren't very bright. I bought a strip of = small LEDs=20 that works nicely for providing a very small, focused amount of light in = an=20 otherwise dark room. They work well in the living room since you can = watch TV in=20 the dark and occasionally glance over at a dimly lit rug--which is = better than=20 an unlit rug. But they are very dim; if a normal bulb is on you can't = even tell=20 the LEDs are on.

I also tried buying some "normal" LED light = bulbs, but=20 those were also very dim, perhaps equal to a 40 watt bulb at best. Have = you=20 managed to find reasonably priced LEDs that produce a large amount of = light?=20


Posted by louis_dubreuil on 05-01-2007 11:40 AM:=20


Bonjour =E0 tous

I have some experience about indoor lighting. = The=20 quality of the light in a room depends of several conditions :

- = colour=20 temperature : the higher is the K degree of the lamp, the nearer of the = sun=20 light at midday (6200 K).
- continuity of the spectrum : = incandescence bulbs=20 have a continuous spectrum near of the natural light. Generally, = fluorescent=20 bulbs, discharge lamps (metallic iodures for ex) do not have continuous=20 spectrum. Some colour bands lack and the light given by those lamps can = display=20 some chromatic dominance (too pink, too blue, too green...). The = rendering on=20 coloured objects could be unpleasant and artificial. Fluorescent tubes = have a=20 better colour rendering than bulbs. In this case the better way is to = mix in a=20 double set two tubes of different white (industrial white + daylight for = ex).
- intensive or extensive lighting : this is in my opinion the = key of the=20 problem. This is true that the colours of a rug are better with a good = level of=20 lighting (mesured by lux). But for the brain the real thing is the = contrast=20 between the object and the background.
For ex : your rug is on the = floor, the=20 light comes down from the ceiling. You have the choice between a double = fluo set=20 fixed on the ceiling that can produce a uniform light on the rug and on = the=20 whole floor and walls around it, and a spot light with a tungsten/iode = buld that=20 can give light only on the rug (with a framed optic in the spot, like in = museum). The second solution will be more pleasant than the first = despite the=20 lux level could be under. The rug will be thrown out and the room will = keep a=20 combortable level of light. To do a comparison, go to a super market and = go to a=20 museum : the objects are visible in the two cases, but are not lighted = in the=20 same way.
A second reason to choose intensive lighting : you can put = the=20 light source under different incidence angles. This is particularly = usefull fot=20 rugs or frames hanging on the walls. With a good angle and a little spot = you can=20 show the texture of the rug or weaving. With museum like light set you = can just=20 light the object and not the wall around it.
- hot spots : if you = use a very=20 intensive spot (5=B0) without frame set you can make a hot spot of light = over a=20 little part of a rug. around the the intense light spot the other parts = of the=20 rug are also illuminated but in a lower level. The effect may be = dramatic in a=20 dark corner of the room.

The problem of the new bulbs (flurescent = or=20 leds) is that there is no proper way to focalise the light on objects in = an=20 intensive manner. It is possible to find sets with discharge lamps with = a good=20 optical device, but the light power of those lamps are too great for = using in a=20 house ( and there is a problem of UV that can dammage colours). The best = way is=20 to use a set of low voltage (12 V) tungsten/iode bulbs with built-in = reflectors=20 (or with special spots) fixed on a rail on the ceiling or on two cables = tight=20 between two walls. This system is evolutive and extra lamps can be added = for new=20 rugs (you just have to get a sufficient power for the transfo 230/12 V). = Another=20 advantage of this system is that it can easily controlled by a power = variator :=20 the light level can be easily adjusted to the light level of the room = (and you=20 can save energy ! mind the climate !). With this system you can combine = two=20 puposes : good lighting on the rugs and good light-mood in the room. I = don't=20 know anything worse than a room lighted by extensive fluorescent bulbs = fixed on=20 the ceiling : the shadows disapear, the uniformity of the light creates=20 depressing effect on the mind, it's boring to death !

Amicales=20 salutations


Posted by R._John_Howe on 05-04-2007 01:14 AM:=20

Lighting the Rugs We Display

Dear folks -

I am hoping that Wendel Swan will notice and post = in this=20 thread. Wendel has both strong views and considerable experimental = experience=20 with lighting rugs and it is one of his most frequent complaints that = rugs are=20 not lit to advantage.

I fear that I am a great disappointment to = those=20 advocating careful lighting of the textiles they display. I gave up all = my track=20 lighting when we began to decorate with "antique" American furniture = (although=20 the eventual results are more on the eclectic side).

My only = excuse is to=20 indicate that I am simulating the lighting in a yurt so as to let folks = see my=20 Turkmen pieces as they might have been seen in their original = ethnographic=20 setting. 3D""


R. John Howe

Posted by Robert Alimi on 05-04-2007 12:16 PM:=20

I think this is a pretty interesting topic. I use MR16 halogen (35w = &=20 50w) bulbs in low voltage fixtures. The fixtures are a mix of low = profile track=20 heads and 4" recessed. There are many MR16 bulb manufacturers to select = from,=20 with a LARGE number of bulb characteristics and beam spreads available. = I've=20 tried a lot of different combinations, sometimes lighting a piece with a = mix of=20 bulbs. I also have one halogen framing projector which, if you have the = right=20 location, can provide pretty dramatic lighting. For bulbs, my current = mainstay=20 is the Sylvania 35w Tru-Aim in a variety of beam spreads. I've tried = Solux and=20 other brands, but have currently settled on the Tru-Aim. The downside to = all=20 this halogen, of course, is excess heat...good thing I live up=20 north.


Posted by Steve Price on 05-04-2007 12:27 PM:=20

Hi Robert

Although halogen lamps get extremely hot to the = touch, I=20 think the total amount of heat generated by them is lower than that = generated by=20 incandescent lamps that give the same amount of light. The reason is = that=20 incandescent lamps are less efficient (that is, the same wattage = generates less=20 light intensity). A 30 watt halogen lamp puts out a beam about as = intense as=20 that of a 75 to 100 watt incandescent lamp with similar beam spread. = Also, using=20 as narrow a beam as suffices to illuminate the object will result in = greater=20 efficiency.

Now if I could just train my kid to turn off lights = behind=20 him ....


Steve Price

Posted by Jerry Silverman on 05-04-2007 01:15 PM:=20

Sounds like none of you are planning on a career mounting exhibitions = at the=20 Textile Museum.

We've discussed archival lighting issues here = before,=20 and the illumination you all are proposing wildly exceeds conservation=20 standards.

On the other hand, your lighting probably allows you = to make=20 out the design and colors of your = rugs.



Posted by R._John_Howe on 05-06-2007 01:33 PM:=20

These Questions With a Curator Long Ago

Dear folks -

Jerry Silverman's post reminds me that we once = convinced=20 the, then, curator of conservation at the TM to host a salon in which = she stated=20 her case about why museum lighting standards are the way they = are.

Man= y of us=20 were not convinced, and Sarah took some fairly stern counter-arguments, = but was=20 still there at the end.

One of the few times we've actually heard = directly from a museum person engaged in establishing such=20 standards.


R. John Howe

Posted by Wendel Swan on 05-10-2007 10:29 AM:=20

Hello all,

I think I=92d better respond to John=92s call for = input about=20 lighting before he returns from Turkey.

I installed low voltage = track=20 lighting (using MR16 halogen bulbs) in my house 12 or more years ago and = my=20 enjoyment of our rugs increased immeasurably. Track lighting systems can = be=20 inexpensive and are readily available at the major hardware stores such = as=20 Lowe=92s or Home Depot.

You can install the surface mounted = tracks=20 yourself, but you do need to connect the track head, possibly through a = new=20 junction box.

A 3-fixture set usually comes with about 4-6 feet = of track=20 and costs about $60. Additional fixtures are $20 or so each and bulbs = cost=20 $5-10, depending on the brand and the beam spread.

Our living = room is=20 about 14x24 feet. I have two runs of track operating from one switch = with a=20 rheostat. Right now I have 18 fixtures that illuminate 12 objects (10 = textiles,=20 an orchid and an oil painting). I use three additional fixtures when the = rugs=20 are larger. No one rug has ever required more than 5 lights.

The = fixtures=20 are 4.5 to 10 feet from the objects. The bulbs are primarily Sylvania = EZX very=20 narrow beam (roughly a 6 or 7 degree spread), but some are ESX, narrow = beam. All=20 are 20 watts, except for one 50 watt bulb that illuminates a 4.5=92 x = 4.5=92 rug. I=20 never have the lights on at full power. I usually have the rheostat set = at about=20 50-60%. That means that something around 200 watts lights all the rugs, = and=20 quite adequately. The MR16s last a long, long time.

In addition = to the=20 track lighting, we have three recessed lights and four table or floor = lamps, all=20 with incandescent bulbs. Don=92t try to illuminate the rugs with ambient = light. By=20 keeping ambient light levels low, the effect of the track lighting is=20 enhanced.

For 8=92 ceilings, the tracks should be at least three = feet from=20 the wall on which the light falls. Make the angle as shallow as = possible. If you=20 mount the track too close to the wall, you=92ll only get unwanted=20 shadows.

I know one collector who paid for an =93expert=94 to = install his=20 track lights, but they were way too close to the wall. The result was, = well,=20 less than optimum.

I have been obsessed with having as little = light=20 spillage as possible, hence the narrow beam spread. Further, I reduce = spillage=20 on the ceiling and to the sides by using PVC plumbing sections of about = 3=94 in=20 length that fit into the fixtures. No, they don=92t burn or melt. You = can use=20 sheet aluminum or even paper rolled into a tube if you = wish.

Never buy=20 anything called a flood light and make sure that you understand beam = spread=20 before you put down a nickel. The bulbs all look alike, so you must do = some=20 research on each specific bulb. You can find most of the information on = the=20 internet now, but that wasn=92t the case when I started on my project. = Make sure=20 you get the narrowest possible spread.

Another reason to buy a = very=20 narrow beam spread is that light dissipates quickly with distance. You = want=20 light on the rug, not in the air between the fixture and the = rug.

You can=20 buy framing projectors, but they are very expensive and inefficient = because the=20 baffle system consumes a lot of light. My entire system cost maybe $800. = You=20 could spend 10 times that on professional lines such as Lightolier, but = that=20 $800 was the best money I ever spent in connection with rugs.

I = just=20 can=92t imagine trying to illuminate rugs with incandescent or = fluorescent bulbs.=20 The efficient, unobtrusive, white-light MR16s are the only way to=20 go.


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