blue over red makes purple

[Pierre Galafassi]

Hi Jim,

I have no first hand information about the proportion of Turkmen weavers which would prefer buying the indigo-dyed wool rather than dyeing it themselves.
That some did, is mentioned by visitors and written in various rug books.
I suppose that the option makes good sense.
The weaver's decision probably depends on a number of factors, economical ones, proximity of a market city, state of the relations with this city, whether the family is moving frequently or stays for a while in a yaoul, for example. (1)

A wealthy Turkmen selling or bartering, on the Khiva or Bokhara market, a couple of sheep and the Persian lad captured during his last alaman, would be quite likely to add to his own shopping list, next to tea (the main luxury and a necessity as well), some gun powder, perhaps a cast-iron pot or some silver bling for his wife and enough indigo-dyed wool for a khali and a couple of bags.
A 'tschomri', temporarily settled in a Yaoul, (often an older, influential and wealthier man) will perhaps chose the option of indigo home-dyeing, while a 'tscharwa' (usually a younger member of the family / clan), who frequently moves his yurt following the sheep, horses, camels from pasture to pasture, but not necessarily a destitute, since he may participate to alamans and have served as auxiliary in the Uzbek Khanate cavalry and may own many sheep himself, will probably rather buy indigo-dyed wool, since keeping an indigo vat is hardly compatible with a busy nomadic life. Indigo dyeing also requires much more experience than a mere mordant dyeing with Rubbia and one does not want to waste expensive, imported indigo, I suppose.

(1) Any Turkmen would surely know wool qualities better than the city dyer from which he would buy the indigo-dyed wool. Rest assured that it will suit the weaver's needs.
Kind regards
Pierre